Today was my first day in India.  As I try and summarize everything that I’ve seen and experienced today, the whole experience is overwhelming.  Landing at the New Delhi airport was like landing in another world.  A dirty, crowded, and chaotic world.

Going from the pristine Munich airport and my business class seat to the Delhi airport truly felt like stepping into a third-world country.  From the buildings that look like they could fall apart at any moment to the poverty that just surrounds me wherever I go… I truly feel out of place.

After arriving I flew through customs and picked up my baggage – grateful that the airport wasn’t too busy so that I could get my bearings.  I then made a quick stop to pick up some Rupees before heading through the exit where I was stopped by the final customs agent.  It was here that I realized this trip was going to be full of “firsts.”  The man asked if I was carrying any laptops and I told him I was carrying two – one for business and one for personal use.  Well, apparently when traveling to India you’re allowed only one laptop per person – regardless of use.  You are then required to pay duty – approximately 40% – on any other laptop brought into the country.  I asked how much duty would be, but the man simply said if I gave him $40 that he would look the other way.  I talked him down to $20, handed him the money under the podium, and walked out the door.  I still maintain that I got a good deal on the transaction – but bribing a customs agent was definitely a first.

I met my driver outside who proceeded to carry my bags to his car.  A few other men ran over as he opened the trunk and “helped” him put in my bags and then demanded payment for their “services” in US dollars or Euros.  Seeing that I was just out $20 for my laptop I simply stated I didn’t have any cash, only credit cards, which prompted them to walk away disappointed.

At this point I was definitely overwhelmed by the people, sights, sounds, and smells – but never scared.  The fear began once I got into the car and we began driving down the highway.  I call it a highway, but really it’s more of a free-for-all.  Sharing the road with pedestrians, scooters, bikes, three-wheeled buggies, tractors, and semis we barreled down the road weaving in and out of traffic. The only rule on the road seemed to be “don’t die” but I’m not so sure the driver was following that one either.  Instead of signaling for a lane change the driver simply drove where he wanted.  If a car was in the way – he simply honked – and swerved around them.  My favorite section of the road was about a mile away from the toll booth where the lane markings ended and 10 lanes suddenly converge into 3 – talk about chaos!  It was definitely scary to be in the car, but I couldn’t imagine walking along the side (or middle) of the road in those conditions.  Some folks were just standing 4-6 feet out into the road chatting – cars honking – but didn’t seem to have a care in the world.  Even kids were playing in the median! And I thought I was an overprotective parent worrying about the girls playing in our apartment’s parking lot…

We eventually arrived at the hotel – which seemed completely out of place considering the surrounding buildings, empty lots, and tents of people huddled over a stove.  I was comforted to see, however, that the driver’s car was searched by the guards at the entrance as well as my bags upon entering the hotel.  Especially after the terror in Mumbai a few weeks ago, this demonstration of security did a lot to calm me down.

Since there were no “deluxe rooms” available when I arrived the hotel kindly upgraded me to one of their nicest rooms – and I can’t complain.  I’ve included a few pictures here, but the room is very comparable to a nicer Marriott or Hilton hotel room.  I did find a few interesting amenities in the room.  For example, in order to turn on the power in the room I have to insert my room card into a little slot by the door – apparently to cut down on the electricity costs of guests who leave the TV on all day.  There is also a little keypad by the thermostat where you can press “do not disturb” or “make up” which lights up the corresponding signs outside the door.

(Click to enlarge)

After a quick shower and change into some business casual attire I headed to the office where I was again greeted with more security and bag searches.  There are guards at every door on every floor of the building who are quick to question you if they don’t recognize you – even if you have a badge.

Needless to say I spent the rest of the day at the office until about 7:30 when I left with a colleague for a traditional Indian dinner which was better than I expected.  I just hope my body is forgiving of the Indian food I’ve been feeding it ever since I got here.